Made to Measure in Los Angeles — and Why We Don't Offer It
Mr James does not make made-to-measure suits. We make bespoke, full canvas, from $1,795, cut from a pattern drawn for one man and made by our own atelier in Southern Brittany, France.
That is an unusual thing to put at the top of a page about made to measure. But most men searching the term are not looking for a manufacturing method — they are looking for a suit that fits, at a sensible price, and made to measure is the phrase they have been given. This page explains what the words actually mean, what each one costs in Los Angeles, and when made to measure is genuinely the right answer. Sometimes it is.
The three things being sold
Off the peg. A finished suit in standard sizes, altered afterwards. Waist, sleeve and trouser length can move. The shoulder and the chest largely cannot, and those are the two things the eye reads first.
Made to measure. An existing block pattern — a template the maker already owns — adjusted to your measurements. Sleeve shortened, waist suppressed, length changed. It is a good system and it produces good suits. What it cannot do is accommodate a body that differs from the block in shape rather than size: a dropped shoulder, a forward neck, a fuller seat, an athletic chest over a narrow waist.
Bespoke. A pattern drawn from nothing, for one person. No block. Around thirty measurements, plus photographs that record posture, because one shoulder is almost always lower than the other and a pattern has to know that. The pattern is then kept and reused for every later commission.
The part nobody mentions: canvas
The construction question is separate from the fit question, and it matters more over time.
A fully canvassed jacket has a layer of horsehair and wool stitched between the outer cloth and the lining. It is not attached to the cloth — it floats, and over months it moulds to the chest of the man wearing it. It can be pressed, altered and remade for decades.
A fused jacket has that interlining glued on with adhesive. It is quicker and cheaper, and it looks correct in the shop. Over a few years, with heat and dry cleaning, the glue fails and the front of the jacket bubbles. It cannot be repaired.
Half canvas sits between the two: canvas through the chest and lapel, fusing below.
A great deal of made to measure in Los Angeles is fused or half canvassed, including at prices well above $2,000. This is the thing worth asking about, and it is rarely volunteered. If you take one question away from this page, make it that one: is the jacket fully canvassed? Ask it of us too.
What each costs in Los Angeles
| Off the peg, department store | $300 – $900, usually fused |
| Made to measure, mall or online | $600 – $1,200, almost always fused |
| Made to measure, good local tailor | $1,200 – $2,500, fused or half canvas |
| Bespoke at Mr James | from $1,795, always full canvas |
| Bespoke, Savile Row | £4,500 – £7,000 and up |
Those first four bands are ranges we observe in this market, not quoted prices from named houses. Our own figures are exact:
| Two-piece suit | from $1,795 |
| Three-piece suit | from $2,045 |
| Tuxedo | from $1,795 |
| Custom shirt | $295 |
| Odd trousers | $450 |
| Overcoat | from $1,200 |
Finer mills sit above: Drago from $2,995, Zegna and Holland & Sherry from $3,495, Loro Piana from $3,995. The price is set by the cloth. The making is identical at every level.
Unlimited fittings and one year of complimentary alterations are included in every figure above. That is worth stating plainly, because a made-to-measure price is often quoted with two fittings, and the third and fourth are chargeable.
The honest comparison
| Typical MTM in LA | Bespoke at Mr James | |
|---|---|---|
| Pattern | Existing block, adjusted | Drawn for you, kept on file |
| Measurements | 10–15 typically | Around 30, plus three photographs |
| Construction | Often fused or half canvas | Full canvas, no exceptions |
| Fittings | Usually two, further ones chargeable | Unlimited, included |
| Alterations after delivery | Usually chargeable | One year complimentary |
| Who you meet | Often a salesperson | Robb or Ben, every time |
| Where it is made | Commonly overseas contract factory | Our own atelier in Brittany, France |
| Entry price | $600 – $2,500 | $1,795 |
| Time | 3–6 weeks | 4–6 weeks domestic, 6–8 imported |
When made to measure is the right answer
We would rather say this than win a commission that should not have been ours.
Choose made to measure if: your budget is firmly under $1,500 and you want something better than off the peg; you need a suit in under three weeks; you have a standard build and off-the-peg jackets already fit your shoulders; or you want a suit for one occasion and do not expect to wear it again.
Choose bespoke if: off-the-peg jackets never sit right across your shoulders or chest; you have a dropped shoulder, a forward neck, an athletic build or any asymmetry; you want the suit to last ten years rather than three; you expect to commission again, so the pattern keeps paying back; or the occasion is one where photographs will outlive the day.
If you tell us honestly what you need and bespoke is the wrong fit, we will say so, and we will not try to talk you round.
Common questions
Is bespoke always better than made to measure? For fit on an unusual build and for longevity, yes. For a standard build on a tight budget and a short timeline, a good made-to-measure suit is a sensible purchase and we would not pretend otherwise.
Why is your bespoke cheaper than some made to measure? Because we own the atelier. There is no factory margin and no brand licensing between you and the people cutting the cloth. It is the same reason the making does not change when you pick a finer mill.
Do you offer made to measure at a lower price point? No. Every garment we make is full canvas and fully bespoke. We would rather have one honest product than two.
Is "custom" the same as bespoke? Not necessarily. "Custom", "tailored" and "personalised" are marketing words with no agreed meaning, and are used for all three categories above. Ask about the pattern and the canvas instead — those two answers tell you what you are actually buying.
How long does a first bespoke suit take? Four to six weeks in domestic cloth, six to eight in imported Italian or English cloth. Rush commissions are possible at a twenty-five per cent surcharge.
Come and look at the difference
The quickest way to understand the canvas argument is to hold two jackets. We keep both on hand and will show you, with no obligation and no charge.
The first consultation is an hour and free, at 221 Culver Blvd, Playa del Rey. Free parking front and back.
Book a private consultation — or telephone 310-503-3592, or write to mrjames@bespokemrjames.com.
More on how we work: bespoke suits · what a bespoke suit costs in Los Angeles · tuxedos and black tie · about the house.