Custom Suits for Tall, Big and Athletic Men in Los Angeles

Some men walk into a department store, try on a 40 regular and walk out looking sharp. For many others, nothing on the rail ever fits. The jacket fits the shoulders but swims at the waist. The sleeves are right but the chest won't button. The trousers fit the waist but strangle the thigh.

If that sounds familiar, the problem isn't your body. Ready-made suits are cut for an average few men match, and the further you are from it, the more it shows. In Los Angeles there are plenty of men who sit well outside it: tall men, broad men, men who lift, cyclists, swimmers and former athletes.

Whether you are searching for big and tall custom suits in Los Angeles, athletic fit suits that actually close over the chest, or custom suits for broad shoulders, this guide explains why off-the-rack fails those builds, what a custom suit in Los Angeles does differently, and what to ask for when you have one made.

Why ready-made suits fail non-standard builds

A ready-made suit is graded from one base pattern. To make a 46 long, the factory scales the 40 regular up by fixed amounts in each direction. That works if your body grows in the same proportions as the grading table. Most bodies don't.

A few common mismatches:

• Tall and slim. The long sizes add length, but they also add width you don't need, so the jacket hangs like a tent.
• Broad chest, narrow waist. The jacket has to be sized for the chest, which leaves several inches of spare cloth at the waist. Remakes can take some of it in, but only so far before the pockets and darts distort.
• Big frame. Larger sizes often come with a shorter rise and narrow legs, so the trousers pull and crease when you sit.
• Athletic thighs and seat. Slim-fit trousers that fit the waist won't go over the quads, and a size up gives you a waist you can fit a fist into.

You can read more on how a suit should fit in our fit guide. The short version: if a tailor has to rebuild a ready-made suit to fit you, you are paying twice for a compromise.

What a custom suit does differently

A bespoke suit starts from your body, not a size. At Mr James, Robb takes around thirty measurements, notes your posture and how you stand, and drafts a pattern for you alone. That pattern is then used to cut the cloth at Max's atelier in France, and the suit comes back to Playa del Rey for fittings.

That matters for unusual builds in three ways.

Proportions are set independently. Chest, waist, seat, shoulder slope, arm length and back length are each cut to your measurements, rather than scaled from a size.

Posture is built in. Many athletic men stand with a forward head or developed upper back, and many tall men stoop slightly. A pattern drawn for you accounts for that, so the collar sits on your neck and the jacket doesn't swing open at the front.

Fittings refine it. The first fitting is where the pattern meets your actual body in cloth. Anything that pulls or drapes is corrected before the suit is finished. Read what happens at a suit fitting for the full picture.

If you are unsure whether you need full bespoke or something simpler, our guide to tailored, made-to-measure or bespoke lays out the differences.

Custom suits for tall men: proportion over length

The mistake tall men often make is thinking the only fix is a longer jacket. Length matters, but proportion matters more.

• Jacket length should cover the seat, with the hem roughly in line with the knuckles when your arms hang. On a tall man, a jacket cut too short makes the legs look endless; cut too long, it shortens them.
• Button stance sets where the eye reads your waist. Placing the top button at your natural waist keeps a long torso balanced.
• Lapel width and pocket placement should scale with your frame, so details don't look small on a big canvas.
• Trouser break. Tall men usually look best with a slight break or none, and a rise that sits at the natural waist. See our guide on trouser break.

Big and tall custom suits: structure and clean lines

Big and tall stores sell more cloth, not a better cut. For a bigger frame, the goal is a clean, uninterrupted line from shoulder to hem.

• Shoulders should be cut to your natural shoulder, not built up. Heavy padding adds width you don't need.
• A single-breasted jacket with a lower button point usually lengthens the body. A double-breasted cut can work well too, if it is proportioned to your frame. Our guide to double-breasted or single-breasted suits covers both.
• Trousers with a comfortable rise and enough room through the seat sit well when you stand and when you sit, without pulling at the pockets.
• Cloth with some drape hangs better than stiff cloth. Robb will show you options at the consultation, from the house cloth to mills such as Loro Piana, Zegna, Holland & Sherry and Scabal.

Athletic fit suits: room where you need it

Most "athletic fit" suits on the rail are a slim fit with a little more chest. A true athletic fit suit is cut for your drop, the difference between chest and waist. Athletic men have the opposite problem from big men: lots of muscle in specific places and very little at the waist.

• Chest and back. A custom jacket gives you room across the back so you can reach forward without the seams straining, while keeping the waist suppressed so the shape of your torso still shows.
• Broad shoulders. Custom suits for broad shoulders start with the shoulder line itself: the width, slope and sleeve pitch are drafted to your frame, so the jacket sits flat across the back without padding or pulling at the collar.
• Arms. Developed biceps and forearms need a fuller sleeve that still tapers to the wrist. A sleeve that is too tight at the bicep pulls the whole jacket when you move.
• Thighs and seat. Trousers are cut for your seat and thigh, then tapered, so they don't cling or balloon.
• Neck. A thick neck changes how a collar sits. If you also order shirts, they are drafted to match.

Construction matters here too. A full canvas jacket moulds to your chest over time rather than fighting it.

What to bring to the consultation

A few things help:

• A shirt that fits you well, if you have one.
• A note of what the suit is for: work, a wedding, an event, or all three.
• Any photographs of suits you like on men with a similar build.

If getting to Playa del Rey is hard, Robb also offers home and office visits across Los Angeles.

Timing and price

A bespoke suit takes 4 to 12 weeks from first measurement to final fitting, depending on the cloth and how many fittings you need. Read more on how long a bespoke suit takes.

Every suit is priced at consultation, because the cloth and the details you choose decide the cost.

Book a fitting

If you have spent years buying suits that almost fit, have one made for your build. Our page on custom suits for tall and big men in Los Angeles sets out how the commission works from end to end. Fittings are by appointment at 221 Culver Blvd, Playa del Rey, at our studio for custom suits in Playa del Rey.

Book a fitting with Robb, or call 310-503-3592.

Frequently asked questions

Can you make suits for very tall men?

Yes. Every Mr James suit is cut from a pattern drawn for the client, so height is simply one more measurement. Jacket length, sleeve length, button stance and trouser rise are all set to your proportions.

Do you make suits for big men?

Yes. A custom pattern is drafted for your chest, waist and seat, so the suit fits your frame rather than a scaled-up stock size.

Do you make big and tall custom suits in Los Angeles?

Yes. Fittings are at 221 Culver Blvd, Playa del Rey, and every suit is cut from your own pattern, so there is no size limit.

I have broad shoulders and a narrow waist. Can you fit that?

Yes. That is one of the most common reasons clients come to us. The shoulder and waist are drafted separately, so the jacket fits both.

I have a muscular build. Will a custom suit restrict movement?

It shouldn't. The jacket is cut with room across the back and arms where you need it and shaped at the waist, and the fittings are where any tightness is corrected.

How long does a custom suit take?

Usually 4 to 12 weeks, depending on the cloth and the number of fittings.

How much does a custom suit for a big or tall man cost?

Every suit is priced at consultation. The cloth and details you choose decide the price.

Where are fittings held?

At 221 Culver Blvd, Playa del Rey, by appointment. Home and office visits are also available across Los Angeles.